The godmother of Italian-American cooking shares her Easter feast tips.
By Kara Zuaro
Roasted Lamb Shoulder (agnello de latte arrosto) | Braised Artichokes with Pecorino (carciofi al tegame) | Fried Chickpea Polenta (panelle) | Easter Bread (pinza) | Limoncello Tiramisu (tiramisu Al Limoncello)
Two days before: Marinate the lamb shoulder. Make the Limoncello Tiramisù.
The day before: Trim and braise the artichokes, but hold off on the last step of the recipe, which involves melting cheese over the dish. Prepare the polenta (or panelle), spread it onto an oiled baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate—don't cut and fry it yet. Roast the lamb and make the sauce to go with it.
Easter morning: Cook the vegetables for the salad, but don't dress them yet. Cut and fry the polenta. Just before serving: Dress the salad, top with eggs, and chill briefly. Reheat the lamb on the stovetop by simmering it in its sauce. Reheat the artichokes on the stovetop and sprinkle with cheese. Place the polenta in a warm oven—or simply serve at room temperature.
Save Time: Recycle Eggs
Instead of hard-boiling eggs for the Scallion and Asparagus Salad, use Easter eggs from the morning's hunt. "That's one part of our tradition," Bastianich explains. "Just make sure they're not cracked, or the color will seep in. Today, they have edible dyes, so it's not dangerous, but if you don't want colored eggs in your salad, look for eggs without cracks in them." Of course, if you're planning on serving your Easter eggs, it's important to keep them refrigerated before and after the egg hunt.
Choosing and Trimming Artichokes
In her recipe for Braised Artichokes, Bastianich recommends using small, young artichokes, which are available at farmers' markets in the springtime. "They're the size of a Bartlett pear or a little larger than a rosebud," she explains. These are easier to prepare than mature artichokes, but they still require some trimming: "Usually the outside leaves are tough or bruised, and there are prickly points. You want to pluck those away until you see a lighter green. Then, with a serrated knife, you cut off the top third of the choke and end up with something that looks like a stubbed rosebud."
Spicy Substitutions
The artichoke recipe includes peperoncino flakes, hot, sweet pepper flakes that are often used in Roman cuisine but aren't as readily available in American supermarkets. The best substitute is crushed red pepper flakes. Alternatively, "You can substitute black pepper, but you won't get the fire," Bastianich says.
Perfect Panelle
The Fried Chickpea Polenta or panelle calls for chickpea flour, which is available at Italian grocery stores and online at ChefShop.com. "When you cook the panelle, it's almost like a pudding," Bastianich says. "Then, you spread it on a cookie sheet, not too tall, and it solidifies when it cools, just like a polenta. Polenta has a coarser grain, but once it solidifies, it's about the same." Even after the panelle chills and solidifies, it's still fragile and will break if you try to pick up a big piece, so it's important to cut it into small pieces for frying. "After you fry them, they'll be crispy on the outside and solid but creamy on the inside," Bastianich notes.
Wine Pairings
For the Bastianich family, holiday celebrations always involve breaking out the family wine. With the salad, she recommends the Bastianich 2006 Tocai Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli. "The Tocai is very fruity and has a little almond finish, which is really nice," she says. For the lamb, Bastianich recommends serving "a fruity red, but not a very big red," perhaps a Morellino.
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Roasted Lamb Shoulder (agnello de latte arrosto) | Braised Artichokes with Pecorino (carciofi al tegame) | Fried Chickpea Polenta (panelle) | Easter Bread (pinza) | Limoncello Tiramisu (tiramisu Al Limoncello)
Biography
Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of five cookbooks, Lidia's Family Table, Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, Lidia's Italian Table, La Cucina di Lidia, and most recently, Lidia's Italy. Several of her books have been accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series, and her current show, Lidia's Italy, takes viewers on a gastronomic tour of Italy, showcasing her recipes region by region. Bastianich also owns five restaurants, including Felidia, Becco, and Del Posto in New York, Lidia's Kansas City, and Lidia's Pittsburgh. In 1998, Lidia and her son, Joseph Bastianich, bought a vineyard in Buttrio, Italy, and together they now produce Bastianich wines. For more information on Bastianich, go to LidiasItaly.com.
